Is Iceland's Westfjords Worth the Detour

Is Iceland’s Westfjords Worth the Detour

You are two hours into a gravel switchback. Your knuckles are white. The fjord below is a sheet of grey glass, and the only sound is the crunch of volcanic rock under your tyres. No phone signal. No other cars. Just you, a road that seems to fold in on itself, and the growing certainty that this was either a terrible mistake or the best decision you will make in Iceland.

That is the Westfjords. It is not part of the Ring Road. It is not convenient. Commit a minimum of three days. You will spend a significant portion of those days driving at 50 km/h on gravel, watching your fuel gauge like a hawk. But if you are the kind of traveller who would rather stand alone at the base of a 100 metre waterfall than queue for a photo of a glacier lagoon, this region will reward you in ways the Golden Circle never can.

The Smart Entry Point: the Baldur Ferry

Most people drive the Ring Road clockwise from Reykjavík, hit Snæfellsnes, and then face a 455 km slog north to Ísafjörður. That is 5.5 to 6.5 hours of driving in summer conditions, and that is before you have seen a single waterfall. Avoid that approach. Book the Baldur ferry from Stykkishólmur.

Why The Ferry Wins

The Baldur crosses to Brjánslækur in roughly 2.5 hours, passing through the island of Flatey. It carries 40 to 50 cars and runs year round, with two to three crossings daily in summer and one to two in winter. Reserve vehicle space in advance. The ferry cuts your driving time from Reykjavík to the heart of the Westfjords by at least two hours. It also lands you on the southern edge of the region, putting you closer to Rauðasandur and Látrabjarg than the northern approach would.

After You Dock

From Brjánslækur, the route is straightforward. Follow Route 62 east, then Route 60 north. You will cross the Steingrímsfjarðarheiði mountain pass at 440 metres elevation. In summer the road is open and paved. In winter it is frequently closed. Do not attempt this pass from October through April without checking road.is and vedur.is, and even then, be prepared to turn back.

Ísafjörður: Your Only Real Resupply Town

Ísafjörður, population 2,700, is the only settlement in the Westfjords where you can reliably fill a fuel tank, buy groceries, find a hotel, and get a sit down meal. It has a hospital, a small airport (IFJ), and car rental desks. Treat it as your base. Do not expect to find a petrol station every 50 km. Outside Ísafjörður, the gap between fuel stops can stretch to 100 km. Never let your tank drop below half.

The town sits inside a multi branch tunnel network called Vestfjarðagöng, which runs 9.1 km and includes single lane sections with passing places. Drive slowly. The tunnels are dark, damp, and unlit in parts. If you meet an oncoming car at a passing point, the driver with the wider space yields. This is not a place to rush.

Day Trips Worth The Drive

From Ísafjörður, the three main draws are all accessible as day trips, but you will spend 2.5 to 3.5 hours behind the wheel to reach the furthest ones. Dynjandi waterfall is 70 km away, a 1 to 1.5 hour drive east on Route 60. It is a 100 metre cascade that spreads from 30 metres wide at the top to 60 metres at the base. Park, walk the short trail, and stand at the bottom. No booking required.

Látrabjarg, the 14 km long cliff that rises to 441 metres, is 160 km from Ísafjörður, about 2.5 to 3.5 hours on Route 612, which is partly gravel and narrow. Puffins nest here from May to mid August, alongside razorbills, guillemots, fulmars, and kittiwakes. You can walk right to the edge. There is no fence. The birds will be within arm's length. Do not back up without looking. The cliff face is unstable in places.

Rauðasandur beach, 150 km from Ísafjörður, is a 2.5 to 3.5 hour drive via Route 614, a steep gravel descent unsuitable for large vehicles. The sand is golden red to pinkish, nothing like the black sand of the South Coast. The beach stretches 10 km. You will likely have it to yourself.

Who Should Skip the Westfjords Entirely

If you have seven days total in Iceland and you plan to drive the Ring Road, do not add the Westfjords. You cannot do both without spending every waking hour behind the wheel. The Westfjords demand patience. They demand a tolerance for single lane gravel switchbacks. They demand a willingness to lose mobile signal for hours on end. If you find driving in whiteout conditions stressful, or if you prefer structured itineraries with indoor attractions, skip this region entirely.

The Right Traveller For This Place

The Westfjords suit solo road trippers, landscape photographers, geology nerds, adventure motorcyclists, and anyone who prefers nature over urban culture. They do not suit budget backpackers, nightlife seekers, or travellers who need to stay connected. If your trip is a 7 day Ring Road sprint, skip the Westfjords. If you have 10 days or more, or if you are willing to skip the Ring Road entirely and spend a week here, the payoff is real: Dynjandi's scale, Látrabjarg's puffins, Rauðasandur's colour, and the feeling that you are the only person in Iceland.